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  • A Journey Down Fragrance Lane

    Glamour is synonymous with Hollywood movie stars, but they’re newcomers to the world of perfume, which goes way back. Perfume is thousands of years old.

    The use of herbs and flowers to perfume the air was how a love for fragrance began. It was common for people to wear a garland of flowers, to hang fragrant plants indoors, and add aromatic plants to sweet-smelling rushes spread on a floor.
    One of the oldest uses of perfumes comes form the burning of incense and aromatic herbs used in religious services, often the aromatic gums, frankincense and myrrh, gathered from trees. And the word “perfume” comes from the Latin per fume, meaning “through smoke”.

    The Egyptians were the first to incorporate perfume into their culture followed by the ancient Chinese, Hindus, Arabs, Greeks, and Romans. The Egyptians invented glass, and perfume bottles were one of the first common uses for glass. The earliest use of perfume bottles is Egyptian, dating to around 1000 BC. That’s right, people have been dabbing their earlobes for more than 3000 years.

    From the 9th century, high volume trade between Byzantium and Venice brought perfumes into Europe. There was much trade within Arabia, bringing perfumes from Baghdad to Muslim Spain.

    Arabian perfume was a highly developed art. With ancient formulas from the Persians, they used ingredients from China, India and Africa, producing perfumes on a large scale. They had been using distillation since before the 9th century.

    “Al-Hawi,” a book by Rhazes, who lived back in the 9th or early 10th century, contained a chapter on cosmetics. It was translated into Latin in France in the late 12th century.

    That was about the time, 1000 years ago, that musk and floral perfumes were brought to northwest Europe from Arabia, through trade with the Islamic world and with the returning Crusaders. The trading for perfume was also involved in trade for spices and dyes.

    So, there’s a lot more than “Ooo la la” to that next whiff of French fragrance! The exotic factor goes back thousands of years, and Hollywood is buying it.

    For 240 years, the Anglo-French House of CREED has been the choice of celebrities, royals and connoisseurs of finesse worldwide. It still employs techniques largely abandoned in the perfume industry, and manufactures its own infusions from the finest botanicals and most precious essences the world has to offer.

    The new creation from CREED, Love in White, debuted in 2005. It was the first to be released in the US, and among the first to receive a bottle was actress ANGELINA JOLIE because she and the new scent share a link to the United Nations. Sales of CREED’s Love In White in part support the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). It’s also the first time a CREED fragrance has ever supported a charity, and actress Angelina Jolie is a UN goodwill ambassador working on refugee issues.

    CREED Jasmal was supposedly created just for NATALIE WOOD, and was a preferred scent of lovely Hollywood classic star. Natalie’s warmth and mystery seem to be a match with the fragrance’s notes of Italian and Moroccan Jasmine.

    CREED Fleurissimo is a floral fairy tale of tuberose, rose, violets and iris. A thoughtful groom once presented his bride with the beautiful bouquet in an elegant glass bottle. The bride was GRACE KELLY, and late Prince Rainier of Monaco commissioned Creed to develop a fragrance especially for his princess.

    The fragrance was also a treasured favorite of art and culture-loving JACEQUELINE KENNEDY ONASSIS.

    In 1954, Hollywood associated with CHANEL quite by accident. Screen goddess MARILYN MONROE was asked what she wore to bed at night and gave the breathy reply, “Just a few drops of No 5.” As an icon of seduction, she popularized the fragrance,
    inspiring Chanel’s then advertising director to begin choosing the world’s most stunning actors to keep Chanel No 5 alive in people’s imaginations. ALI MACGRAW and CATHERIN DENEUVE and most recently NICOLE KIDMAN are among beauties chosen.

    Today, MADONNA, JENNIFER LOVE HEWITT and GOLDIE HAWN are among pop world icons who also savor the roots of tradition, all sharing a love for the scent Tuberose Indiana by CREED.

    In January 1957, GIVENCHY created the fragrance L’Interdit especially for the charming screen star AUDREY HEPBURN, and allowed Hepburn to wear it exclusively for a year before it was released to the public the next December. It was, after all, Hepburn who, at the peak of her fame, convinced producers of the film Sabrina to let her wear the creations of up-and-coming young designer Hubert de Givenchy.

    The tradition of Hollywood beauties associated with perfumes continues but, unlike Hepburn, actors of today are generally not the inspiration for the fragrances they endorse, but are chosen for the way they embody the spirit of the scents.

    Today, Lord of the Rings fairy princess LIV TYLER is the face of the new Givenchy fragrance, Very Irresistible.

    One of the latest to be the face of Calvin Klein’s fresh, new fragrance Eternity Moment, is fresh starlet SCARLETT JOHANSSON.

    But do those faces really wear the fragrances they endorse? Ignited by the spontaneous innocence of Marilyn Monroe, successful marketing campaigns have launched a million bottles.

    One would guess, yes, the scents have been worn as advertised at least once. But there are fragrances for every season, for day and for night, and today’s celebrities are launching their own.

    So what do they wear behind the billboards? Here are some boudoir moments of who ihas worn what.

    As they movie stars walk down the red carpet looking gorgeous, they smell gorgeous, too, and it makes common Zents!

    In preparation for Oscar night. CHARLIZE THERON, ANGELINA JOLIE, JADA PINKETTT-SMITH, SHARON STONE, and KATIE HOLMES picked out one of the newest on the scene, ZENTS. The fragrances are created completely by hand in the same tradition as in Paris back at the turn of the century.

    UMA THURMAN was the first person ever to receive the “Fresh” Zents scent upon its creation.

    LAURA DERN loves Fresh. The delicate simplicity of heliotrope, linden blossom, cucumber and green apple are innocent and pure, contrasting with Dern’s other choice from the line, Fig, which is a warm and spicy blend of Himalayan cedarwood, vetiver, balsam, cinnamon, pimento berry — warm, invigorating and sensuous.

    Some other fans of the line include JULIA ROBERTS who loves Ore, a deep, spicy and alluring blend of iris, bay laurel, coriander, jasmine, and patchouli. The style is described as sexy, fiery and euphoric.

    CHRISTINA AGUILERA uses the Zents Concreta solid balm in her hair, which is the fragrance line in the form of a pomade.

    Every year, perfume designers release new creations, and they compete for the attention of the public and the stars that intrigue the world. Some are passing favorites, and some classics still reign.

    The tuberose enchantment of Fracas Parfum by Robert Piguet was cherished in the 40s by legendary diva MARLENE DIETRICH, and is cherished today by MADONNA and KIM BASINGER.

    CHARLIZE THERON and KRISTIN SCOTT THOMAS are both said to love the magnolia, rose, cinnamon, peachy blend that lifts out of the vanilla and sandalwood bottom notes of DOLCE VITA, created by Christian Dior 1996.

    And who can dispute some of these choices reflect the qualities of those who waft them?

    EXOTIC and SWEET

    GWEN STEFANI, OPRAH and CAMERON DIAZ are among celebrity clients who go for the exotic florals, including gardenia, in Monyette Paris. The scent is created using only the purest perfume oils with no alcohol or cologne base, so it’s long lasting and adapts to the wearer. The insouciant CAMERON is also said to like HAPPY by Clinique.

    FRESH, FRUITY and CALM! “Pass the perfume, honey!”

    SARAH JESSICA PARKER and MATTHEW BRODERICK is a celebrity couple that has both worn BRANDY Parfums. The unisex appeal of this fragrance is fresh and elegant with top notes of apple and peach, and herbaceous heart notes that help reduce stress. Other celebrity wearers of this scent for every season are NATALIE PORTMAN, JUDI DENCH, GOLDIE HAWN and TOBY MCGUIRE.

    HONEY CHOCOLATE SPICE!

    Today’s Hollywood divas KATE HUDSON and RENEE ZELLWEGER love ANGEL perfume, designed by THIERRY MUGLER in 1993. Pop star BRANDY and poetic princess VANNA BONTA also reportedly are known to wear this winged journey of a perfume that explores essences of honey, chocolate, and caramel and is blended with notes of vanilla, patchouli, and sandalwood. Sounds like these fragrances give perfect wings to these beauties of page and screen.

    Much talked-about Hollywood writer VANNA BONTA is faithful to poetic fragrances from France of ANNICK GOUTAL, who came to perfume making after a career as a prize-winning pianist. A Bonta favorite is the aerial Eau du Ciel, a subtle interpretation of innocence in rosewood, violet, Florentine iris and lime blossom. Goutal’s description is “delicate as the shiver of an angel’s wing.”

    BONTA indulges her terrestrial favorite signature blossom, the pure white gardenia, with Goutal’s Gardenia Passion, a fragrance famous for its natural and faithful reconstitution of this untamed flower.

    NICOLE KIDMAN is also a fan of ANNICK GOUTAL’s Eau du Sud, an invigorating unisex blend of blend of orange, mint, and basil.

    PERFUMES FIT THE WEATHER

    Fragrances are, after all, created to meet the demand of moods, rain, sun, day, night, cold, warm, and every occasion.

    Sultry amber and incense blends are perfect for winter, warming cold months. VANNA BONTA is a client of the famous Santa Maria Novella apothecary, run by monks, in Florence, Italy, and the Profumi di Firenze. Both lines use fragrance recipes that are hundreds of years old, some originals unchanged since the Renaissance Medici family commissioned them in the 1300s.

    Summer brings out the citrus and vanilla-tropics attacks, and COMPTOIR SUD PACIFIQUE is a favorite of many celebrities for its Vanille variations in pineapple, apricot, lime and milk. A refreshing pineapple favorite is ARTISAN Annanas Fizz.

    MICHELLE PFEIFFER loves Acqua di Gio, and the fresh marine notes with seaside floral scent reflect the crisp, refreshing charisma of this beautiful star.

    Fans of singing diva WHITNEY HOUSTON and Friend’s famous LISA KUDROW are both fans of BULGARI pour Femme.

    MIRA SORVINO and THORA BIRCH love Coco by Chanel, and CALISTA FLOCKHART flounces prettily in So de la Renta.

    THE DIRT ON THE STARS

    The new Pilar & Lucy fragrance, Tiptoing Through Chambers of the Moon, was a hit with some stars this year, as was The Exact Friction of Stars, not suprisingly a VANNA BONTA pick if only for the name. Reportedly a big vanilla fan, Bonta was a client of the cosmic friction of vanilla, coconut, and orange weaved with the warmth of clove.

    And the dirt on SHARON STONE, always on the forefront of invention, is that she loves DEMETER Fragrances, especially Dirt, which is also a supposed favorite of KATE MOSS. In fact, Dirt is one of their most popular, a fresh and clean potting soil scent with the citrus smell of fresh grass. The Demeter library of food, beverage, and nature scents catalogue comfortingly familiar and less oblivious scents of pleasures, such as Russian Leather, Play-Doh, Laundromat, Grass, Thunderstorm, Ocean, Cotton Candy Ahhh. We could go on.

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    Money Saving Tips For Soap Makers and Cosmetic Crafters

    The craft of making cosmetics and perfumes at home can be expensive if you are not
    careful. However, there are many things you can do to save money, while enjoying this
    great hobby. Here are a few ideas:

    Save money on containers that you use for your own personal products by recycling
    the ones you have. To recycle glass or plastic jars and bottles, wash them out with
    hot, soapy water or run them through the dishwasher.

    Reuse those small brown and blue glass bottles that you get when you buy fragrance
    oils and essential oils. When you have finished using up the contents, wash them out
    and use them to store smaller quantities of essential oils or fragrance oils when you
    purchase large quantities, or to store your perfume and essential oil blends, or to store
    small quantities of cosmetic products.

    For inexpensive and unique cosmetic containers and baskets, visit your local dollar
    store. I’ve found perfume bottles, sheer organza bags, and gift baskets at the dollar
    stores in my home town.

    Inexpensive soap molds can be made from many things around your house. Empty
    plastic food containers, muffin pans (if they are aluminum use for melt and pour soap
    or rebatched soap, not cold-process soap), plastic ice trays, or plastic storage
    containers.

    Ololade Franklin publishes Making Good Scents(TM) the newsletter of handcrafted
    cosmetics, soaps, and perfumes. Visit her site online at
    http://www.SoapmakingBusiness.com

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    10 Beauty and Health Resolutions Every Woman Can Keep!

    So you can’t lose those extra 20 pounds in 30 days - or hit the gym three days a week like you wish you could. But that doesn’t mean you can’t face the New Year with some resolve to be a better, healthier, even prettier you in 2006.

    In fact, Yale professor Dr. David Katz says we should lighten up on strict resolutions and approach the New Year with reasonable expectations. Doing so will not only help you stick to your resolve, but the small changes you make can lead to bigger changes down the road - and an ambitious desire to improve your life in many more ways.

    “If you let the small things add up they will add up to meaningful changes in the overall pattern of your life, ” says Katz, director of Yale University’s Prevention Research Center, and co-author of “Stealth Health: How to sneak age-defying, disease-fighting habits into your life without really trying!”

    To help get you started on those small but meaningful changes, here are 10 fast and easy health and beauty resolutions - little things you can do to positively change the way you feel -and the way you look - in 2006! Try one - or all ten - and I promise you’ll see the difference way before spring!

    1. Never go to bed wearing make-up.

    No matter how tired you are, no matter how late it is, take just 2 minutes to slather on and tissue off a facial cleanser and your skin will thank you. Not only will it help remove surface bacteria that could encourage breakouts, most make up is drying to the skin so removing it will help reduce wrinkling while you sleep. If you can squeeze in 30 more seconds for a quick application of moisturizer, you’ll see a definite difference in your face in 7 days or less!

    2. Never leave the house without sunscreen on your face.

    I know . . .you’ve heard it all before. But I promise you that taking this two minute step will not only yield enormous health benefits (like reducing your risk of skin cancer) it’s also the single most important anti aging skin care step you can take. It’s true - the sun IS the number one cause of wrinkles and aging skin. And sunscreen - well it’s the biggest gun in your wrinkle defense arsenal! To make using it easy and automatic, look for either a moisturizer or a foundation with an SPF 15.

    3. Protect your lips - and look younger and sexier!

    Want those juicy, sexy, full Angelina lips? You can have them without a lot of muss and fuss IF you protect your pucker with a lip gloss or balm containing sunscreen. When lips are hydrated and protected they will automatically look fuller - and you’ll look younger! You can capitalize on the protection if you swap out a matte lipstick for a high wattage gloss in a medium warm pink tone.

    4. Whiten your teeth.

    If you haven’t done it yet, this is the one resolution you MUST try! Not only is it the quickest, most inexpensive way to take years off your appearance, it can boost your confidence and give you that polished, well groomed look rich girl - for just pennies a day.

    5. Clean out your make-up bag/ bathroom drawer/ vanity -

    and toss any products you’ve had more than a year. Not only can this help prevent potentially serious eye or skin infections, it will force you to re-evaluate your make up needs - and every woman needs to do that at least once a year! When you head out to the stores to buy items, step out of the box to try a new color or a new make up product. If you always wore lipstick, try gloss, if you only use neutral shadows try a deeper shade for a smokier look. Mix it up - and have fun finding a new look!

    6. Keep up with your hair coloring.

    The 2 inches of “roots” look popularized on “Sex and the City” is going, going, gone! In it’s place is more natural, highlighted color . If you’re wearing a shade you just can’t bear to change, make sure you touch up those roots every 4 weeks. If the time - or the expense - doesn’t permit that kind of attention, then think about having your hair professionally highlighted and low lighted - a mixture of many shades and tones of basic colors like honey blonde, or chestnut brown. The look lasts for up to six months without a touch up.

    7. Trade in your shower gel for a moisturizing bar of soap.

    Did you ever wonder why the ingredient label on your shower gel is 2 inches long and filled with chemical terms you can’t pronounce - while the ingredients on an average bar of beauty soap is just one sentence? Most gels contain chemicals, dyes, foaming agents, and lots of drying alcohol - all things your skin doesn’t need. Try a daily shower with a moisturizing soap instead - and see your entire body complexion come alive in just 14 days or less. And - you’ll save a ton of money too!

    8. Wear a bronzer all year long.

    Most gals think of a powder bronzer as a summertime treat. But it’s also the Hollywood secret that keeps many an aging starlet from looking her age - or letting on how little sleep she really gets! Just a quick pouf of powder on the bridge of your nose, the tops of your cheers, and round the outer rim of your forehead will give you a glow that will leave everyone wondering . . .is she in love . . . again ?

    9. Take a calcium/vitamin D supplement every day.

    While many women believe calcium is only important if you’re pregnant - or post menopausal - the truth is gals of all ages need this vital mineral to maintain a strong and healthy skeleton - and protect against broken bones. What you may not realize: Studies show women in their 20’s need this protection as much as women in their 50’s! But that’s not all! The latest research shows getting adequate calcium may also help keep skin looking younger longer! And since we’re all staying out the sun, the vitamin D is essential to make sure the calcium you take is absorbed. Try it for a month - you’ll see a difference!

    10. Wear fragrance every day!

    Even if you’re just spending the day doing laundry or cleaning the bathroom, studies show that wearing your favorite fragrance is a great way to lift your mood and keep energy levels high. Starting your day with a dousing of fragrance will also make you feel special - and that can affect how you act and react during the entire day. If you can’t afford to use your favorite pricey designer fragrance every day, look for scented body lotions or anoint your pulse points with a fragrant bath oil. For an inexpensive scented body powder purchase any corn-starch based baby powder, pour into an air tight plastic container and spritz the contents several times with your favorite fragrance. Close the lid, shake it - and voila - when you open it you’ll have a whole container of perfumed talc for pennies!

    Victoria Winston is a former runway model and now the style director of http://www.CountryDutchess.com - a fabulous fashion jewelry and beauty outlet.

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